Pin Parvati Pass is one of the most challenging treks in India, which begins in the Parvati Valley in Kullu and ends in Pin Valley in Spiti. The 8 days trek begins at Pulga, a place 10 kms from Manikaran, and continues across several villages as well as alpine mountains, meadows and lakes. Before reaching in Spiti Valley, one has to cross the Pin Parvati Pass 5219 m (17,122 ft.), which is the highest point of the trek. On the other side of the pass, before driving back to Manali through Rohtang Pass, one can explore the beautiful Spiti valley and spend some time at Kaza with all the Buddhist monasteries.
Mantalai lake camp site
A team of 9 members from office would attempt to cross the pass in the month of September 2013. I was overwhelmed and thrilled to have been selected in the advanced team for this company-sponsored trek.
The trek was mostly uphill and proved to be very tiring. The beautiful village of Nakthan accompanied us for the initial part of the trek. It had a lot of apple orchards from where we had some fresh and juicy organic apples.
Initial part of the trek leading to Nakthan
The beautiful village of Nakhtan
Babaji's Ashram at Rudranaag
An old Wooden bridge
We passed through Rudranaag Ashram, a religious place located halfway. Beyond Rudranaag, the trail had a steep ascent that led our tired legs through thick pine forests to the spiritual site of Kheerganga located at around 2960 meters.
Kheerganga-
I knew that the exhaustive 4 hrs trek was over when I saw this picturesque meadow surrounded by mountains and pine forests on all sides. There were a lot of huts, basically restaurants and lodges, on either side of the steep path that led us to the top of the hill where we set our camps at an open ground beside a water source.
Exploring Kheer Ganga
Numerous hut restaurants at Kheerganga
Coming out of the cramped up sleeping bags and the claustrophobic tents seems very liberating in the morning. The ibuprofen tablets seemed to have worked for me, as I felt good to trek.
Misty morning at Tunda Bhuj
The tents had due drops all over them which was the reason why the night felt a bit colder. Toilets were not available for the first time on the trip. We had to climb down the hill with an empty bottle to the stream flowing below in order to freshen up.
After freshening up, we disassembled our tents. We kept our wet clothes from previous day to dry in the sun and waited for the food that was being cooked by our porters. However, some things were not easy this morning. Apart from me burning a part of my shoe while trying to dry it near the fire, we also had to go empty stomach. The chapattis that were served had the strong unbearable smell of diesel. The diesel spilt into the flour while being carried by the porters the previous day. The taste was horrible and I felt like puking at the moment. Disappointed with the breakfast, I had my only hope on the chocolates and candies to be consumed during the trek.
Having diesel mixed parathans
Our destination today was Pandu Pull, which is located at a distance of 16 kms from Tunda Bhuj. Until this time, we were travelling, upstream on the right hand side of the river Parvati. However, the camping site of Pandu pull was on the left side of the river. That meant we had to do some crossing over today.
The trek began with a steep descent and took us to this perilous hanging wooden bridge. The bridge which had its railing broken on one side and precariously tilted on the other side managed to still function and provide passage.
Tedha Pull
Now, there were two ways to reach Pandu pull from Thakur Kuan. The first one, which is frequented, by most of the trekkers is by crossing the river by a trolley ropeway system at Thakur Kuan, travelling along the river and crossing over at Pandu Pull again to the left side to reach the camping site. The other way is to remain on the left side of the river as we were and travel along the river to reach our camping site at Pandu Pull. We decided to avoid the crossing over part and take the route that is seldom taken; which came with a hefty price
The trek was way lengthier and dangerous than the other. The trail ran across steep sided mountains, which were insanely barren. On top of that, there were landslides with gravelly patches. A single slide at these sections would have meant a straight 50 meters drop with nothing to hold on to. There could be two possibilities when you slip; first possibility is that you are dead; second possibility is that you survive with multiple broken body parts and heavy bleeding. In the 2nd case, you would still be dead with no rescue operation for at least a week.
The death defying treacherous way to Pandu Pull
The never ending and extreme trail took a hard hit on everyone. I was so exhausted that my body didn’t even have the energy to feel the pain. We were walking like zombies with no expression. However, the chocolates and the candies came handy to give some boost of energy to travel the final miles. The extreme rush of euphoria that I felt on seeing the camping site from a distance is unparalleled. I don’t remember much after that except that I took ibuprofen before sleeping off in the tent and off course grudging the guide who brain washed us to take this trail. I think I had some joints and some ample amount of rum before that.
Day 6 / Pandu Pull - Mantalai
The mountains on one side and the stream flowing below on the other side made for the perfect camping site at Pandu Pull. Our tents were placed at the side of a huge rock that provided them some protection from the winds and was also used as a fireplace to cook. The view of the Parvati River from the campsite looked stunning; the fast flowing water was capable of taking down anything on its way.
Breakfast time at Pandu Pull
Mantalai lake camp site
A team of 9 members from office would attempt to cross the pass in the month of September 2013. I was overwhelmed and thrilled to have been selected in the advanced team for this company-sponsored trek.
Our week-long preparation for the trek ended on 19th September as we left Delhi for Bhuntar on an overnight Volvo ride.
Day 2 / Bhuntar-Manikaran
We reached Bhuntar at around 8 am on the morning of 20th. While we got down at Bhuntar, the bus continued towards Kullu. Two pre arranged cab took 2 hours to Manikaran along the scenic roads and towns, meandering along the river Parvati. The dreamy town of Kasol, 4 kms before reaching Manikaran looked exotic with the foreign crowd and cafes along the road.
We reached the famous Gurudwara of Manikaran at 10 am where we would be crashing for the night. The authorities happily gave us one huge single room. After dumping our tents and bags in the room, we didn’t wait much longer to take a dip in the hot spring water pool that is located inside the Gurudwara. Cleansed and purified in the medicinal water, we headed for our sumptuous langar meal that is cooked in the hot boiling water of the spring.
After spending the luxurious afternoon at the Gurudwara, it was then time for an evening party. One of the best parts of trekking in the Himalayas is that you also get to explore and dig out a lot of beautiful lesser-known places. At around 4 pm, 4 of us hitchhiked the 4 kms to the town of Kasol.
Kasol
Kasol has recently transformed into a hub for backpackers, who are attracted to the scenic valley, untouched hills, low population, and great climate throughout the year. I could see that the majority of the visitors were from Israel, as a result, the Hebrew language banners were visible throughout the Valley.
Hanging Iron bridge over the river Parvati
It was a pleasant cold evening while we walked down the main road, which was flanked with cafes and restaurants on either side with the view of mountains at the back. While you could find exotic Israeli food in the restaurants, you could illegally procure quality hash from the cafes. As we walked inside the cafes to inquire about weed and kerosene, we were also thrown invites for Psychedelic Trance parties. It would have been a crime not to accept this trance-open barbeque party invitation at Kasol-tents scheduled for the late evening. Since we had plenty of time before that, we explored the other side of Kasol, across the river. It was famous for some exotic cafes and had to be reached through a hanging - shaky iron bridge.
Trance party at Kasol Tents
Low outside sittings at the cold ground with bonfire to keep you warm; hot barbequed chicken with chilled beers; the weed joints and the Israeli Singer playing the unplugged guitar; everything seamlessly integrated to bring the magic alive.
“ Full power, 24 hours, no toilet no shower,” the singer sang while I closed my eyes and took a deep-deep puff, putting myself into a reverie.
We hitchhiked a truck while returning to Manikaran and retired to our huge room in the Gurudwara.
Day 3 / Manikaran-Pulga-Kheerganga
We left the Gurudwara at around 8 am in the cold and windy morning. We loaded our bags, tents and provisions on the jeep and departed towards Pulga through Barseni road.
Infront of Gurudwara at Manikaran
It was a 12 kms bouncy and jerky ride to Pulga at the back of our open jeep. A dam by NHPC, was being built at the site on the river Parvati. This was the point from where we started our trek to Kheer Ganga, a climb of around 16 kms.
Dam over river Parvati at Pulga
Day 2 / Bhuntar-Manikaran
We reached Bhuntar at around 8 am on the morning of 20th. While we got down at Bhuntar, the bus continued towards Kullu. Two pre arranged cab took 2 hours to Manikaran along the scenic roads and towns, meandering along the river Parvati. The dreamy town of Kasol, 4 kms before reaching Manikaran looked exotic with the foreign crowd and cafes along the road.
We reached the famous Gurudwara of Manikaran at 10 am where we would be crashing for the night. The authorities happily gave us one huge single room. After dumping our tents and bags in the room, we didn’t wait much longer to take a dip in the hot spring water pool that is located inside the Gurudwara. Cleansed and purified in the medicinal water, we headed for our sumptuous langar meal that is cooked in the hot boiling water of the spring.
After spending the luxurious afternoon at the Gurudwara, it was then time for an evening party. One of the best parts of trekking in the Himalayas is that you also get to explore and dig out a lot of beautiful lesser-known places. At around 4 pm, 4 of us hitchhiked the 4 kms to the town of Kasol.
Kasol
Kasol has recently transformed into a hub for backpackers, who are attracted to the scenic valley, untouched hills, low population, and great climate throughout the year. I could see that the majority of the visitors were from Israel, as a result, the Hebrew language banners were visible throughout the Valley.
Hanging Iron bridge over the river Parvati
It was a pleasant cold evening while we walked down the main road, which was flanked with cafes and restaurants on either side with the view of mountains at the back. While you could find exotic Israeli food in the restaurants, you could illegally procure quality hash from the cafes. As we walked inside the cafes to inquire about weed and kerosene, we were also thrown invites for Psychedelic Trance parties. It would have been a crime not to accept this trance-open barbeque party invitation at Kasol-tents scheduled for the late evening. Since we had plenty of time before that, we explored the other side of Kasol, across the river. It was famous for some exotic cafes and had to be reached through a hanging - shaky iron bridge.
Trance party at Kasol Tents
Low outside sittings at the cold ground with bonfire to keep you warm; hot barbequed chicken with chilled beers; the weed joints and the Israeli Singer playing the unplugged guitar; everything seamlessly integrated to bring the magic alive.
“ Full power, 24 hours, no toilet no shower,” the singer sang while I closed my eyes and took a deep-deep puff, putting myself into a reverie.
We hitchhiked a truck while returning to Manikaran and retired to our huge room in the Gurudwara.
Day 3 / Manikaran-Pulga-Kheerganga
We left the Gurudwara at around 8 am in the cold and windy morning. We loaded our bags, tents and provisions on the jeep and departed towards Pulga through Barseni road.
Infront of Gurudwara at Manikaran
It was a 12 kms bouncy and jerky ride to Pulga at the back of our open jeep. A dam by NHPC, was being built at the site on the river Parvati. This was the point from where we started our trek to Kheer Ganga, a climb of around 16 kms.
Dam over river Parvati at Pulga
The trek was mostly uphill and proved to be very tiring. The beautiful village of Nakthan accompanied us for the initial part of the trek. It had a lot of apple orchards from where we had some fresh and juicy organic apples.
Initial part of the trek leading to Nakthan
The beautiful village of Nakhtan
Babaji's Ashram at Rudranaag
An old Wooden bridge
We passed through Rudranaag Ashram, a religious place located halfway. Beyond Rudranaag, the trail had a steep ascent that led our tired legs through thick pine forests to the spiritual site of Kheerganga located at around 2960 meters.
Kheerganga-
I knew that the exhaustive 4 hrs trek was over when I saw this picturesque meadow surrounded by mountains and pine forests on all sides. There were a lot of huts, basically restaurants and lodges, on either side of the steep path that led us to the top of the hill where we set our camps at an open ground beside a water source.
Exploring Kheer Ganga
Numerous hut restaurants at Kheerganga
By the time we settled down, had Maggie and tea, it was already late in the evening. Steady chilly winds started blowing in near the campsite. The dark clouds slowly started settling down in the valley. The sun was already behind the mountains. It was the perfect time to set off for the main experience that Kheerganga has to offer; a purifying bath in the hot Spring water pool.
The pool located at the top of the hill, is continuously fed boiling hot sulphur-water that comes from beneath the rocks. The used water drains continuously keeping the pool very fresh.
Camping Site at Kheerganga
It was a mind numbing and body shattering experience, trying to take a dip in the boiling hot pool at that freezing temperature. However, you slowly adjust to the temperature, which becomes very comfortable within moments relaxing all your sore muscles. It was an experience of extreme comfort unparalleled to anything; it was almost impossible for me to leave the pool even after an hour.
Relaxing in the Hot Spring water pool
After the pool experience, late in the evening, we retired to one of the hut restaurants. We occupied a cozy spot near the fireplace. Old Monk rum with cheese omelet was served while we discussed strategies for the rest of the trek. It was a perfect end to the amazing day.
Old Monk at the cosy hut restaurant
Day 4 / Kheerganga- Tunda Bhuj
The morning at Kheerganga was cold and misty. Delicious breakfast cooked in timber wood followed after the blissful hot spring water bath. After breakfast, we left for tunda bhuj, our next destination at a height of 12,600 feet and roughly 15 kms away.
Geared up to depart for Tunda Bhuj
The trek is along the steep side of a gorge that cuts through mountains and provides a way for the river Parvati. We started through the dense forest area, populated with long pine trees. The trek in the forest area seemed to repeat itself at every corner and remained steep for the most part. It started drizzling which made the terrain slippery and very dangerous. To make matters worse, our backpacks gave way to the water that percolated and got absorbed to make the bags heavier.
Posing in the rains
We had to go through wooden bridges, lot of small streams and over the slippery sharp rocks
Balancing act over a log bridge
Camping Site at Kheerganga
It was a mind numbing and body shattering experience, trying to take a dip in the boiling hot pool at that freezing temperature. However, you slowly adjust to the temperature, which becomes very comfortable within moments relaxing all your sore muscles. It was an experience of extreme comfort unparalleled to anything; it was almost impossible for me to leave the pool even after an hour.
Relaxing in the Hot Spring water pool
After the pool experience, late in the evening, we retired to one of the hut restaurants. We occupied a cozy spot near the fireplace. Old Monk rum with cheese omelet was served while we discussed strategies for the rest of the trek. It was a perfect end to the amazing day.
Old Monk at the cosy hut restaurant
Day 4 / Kheerganga- Tunda Bhuj
The morning at Kheerganga was cold and misty. Delicious breakfast cooked in timber wood followed after the blissful hot spring water bath. After breakfast, we left for tunda bhuj, our next destination at a height of 12,600 feet and roughly 15 kms away.
Geared up to depart for Tunda Bhuj
The trek is along the steep side of a gorge that cuts through mountains and provides a way for the river Parvati. We started through the dense forest area, populated with long pine trees. The trek in the forest area seemed to repeat itself at every corner and remained steep for the most part. It started drizzling which made the terrain slippery and very dangerous. To make matters worse, our backpacks gave way to the water that percolated and got absorbed to make the bags heavier.
Posing in the rains
We had to go through wooden bridges, lot of small streams and over the slippery sharp rocks
Balancing act over a log bridge
Halfway into the trek and the vegetation totally changed. The long pine trees gave way to small shrubs and grasses. The trek turned steeper and it became tougher to continue.
Need to be very careful while crossing a slippery waterfall
Need to be very careful while crossing a slippery waterfall
Finally after a lot of struggle, we reached Tunda Bhuj. On reaching, we headed straight into the wooden hut and sat beside the warm fire that was already set by our porters.
The picturesque abandoned Hut at Tunda Bhuj-Camping site
Our tents were set on the side of the hut. We changed our wet clothes, and had hot tea and Maggie. The temperature came down rapidly as the sun set behind the mountains. In the evening, a bonfire was lit which made our tired sprits come alive.
Setting up the Camp fire
After having rice and daal cooked in the evening we all went inside our tents. My body was paining heavily due to all the exertion that my body suffered in the past two days.
Day 5 / Tunda Bhuj - Pandu Pull
The picturesque abandoned Hut at Tunda Bhuj-Camping site
Our tents were set on the side of the hut. We changed our wet clothes, and had hot tea and Maggie. The temperature came down rapidly as the sun set behind the mountains. In the evening, a bonfire was lit which made our tired sprits come alive.
Setting up the Camp fire
After having rice and daal cooked in the evening we all went inside our tents. My body was paining heavily due to all the exertion that my body suffered in the past two days.
Day 5 / Tunda Bhuj - Pandu Pull
Coming out of the cramped up sleeping bags and the claustrophobic tents seems very liberating in the morning. The ibuprofen tablets seemed to have worked for me, as I felt good to trek.
Misty morning at Tunda Bhuj
The tents had due drops all over them which was the reason why the night felt a bit colder. Toilets were not available for the first time on the trip. We had to climb down the hill with an empty bottle to the stream flowing below in order to freshen up.
After freshening up, we disassembled our tents. We kept our wet clothes from previous day to dry in the sun and waited for the food that was being cooked by our porters. However, some things were not easy this morning. Apart from me burning a part of my shoe while trying to dry it near the fire, we also had to go empty stomach. The chapattis that were served had the strong unbearable smell of diesel. The diesel spilt into the flour while being carried by the porters the previous day. The taste was horrible and I felt like puking at the moment. Disappointed with the breakfast, I had my only hope on the chocolates and candies to be consumed during the trek.
Having diesel mixed parathans
Our destination today was Pandu Pull, which is located at a distance of 16 kms from Tunda Bhuj. Until this time, we were travelling, upstream on the right hand side of the river Parvati. However, the camping site of Pandu pull was on the left side of the river. That meant we had to do some crossing over today.
The trek began with a steep descent and took us to this perilous hanging wooden bridge. The bridge which had its railing broken on one side and precariously tilted on the other side managed to still function and provide passage.
Tedha Pull
The porters, who also functioned as guides, advised us to cross it one at a time to avoid any wobbling. A fall from the bridge into the fast flowing freezing water would have surely put lives on immediate danger.
Preparing to cross the Tedha Pull
After safely crossing the bridge, we trekked for another 4 kms to reach this place called Thakur kuan, which is also a camping site.
A long break at Thakur Kuan
Preparing to cross the Tedha Pull
After safely crossing the bridge, we trekked for another 4 kms to reach this place called Thakur kuan, which is also a camping site.
A long break at Thakur Kuan
Now, there were two ways to reach Pandu pull from Thakur Kuan. The first one, which is frequented, by most of the trekkers is by crossing the river by a trolley ropeway system at Thakur Kuan, travelling along the river and crossing over at Pandu Pull again to the left side to reach the camping site. The other way is to remain on the left side of the river as we were and travel along the river to reach our camping site at Pandu Pull. We decided to avoid the crossing over part and take the route that is seldom taken; which came with a hefty price
The trek was way lengthier and dangerous than the other. The trail ran across steep sided mountains, which were insanely barren. On top of that, there were landslides with gravelly patches. A single slide at these sections would have meant a straight 50 meters drop with nothing to hold on to. There could be two possibilities when you slip; first possibility is that you are dead; second possibility is that you survive with multiple broken body parts and heavy bleeding. In the 2nd case, you would still be dead with no rescue operation for at least a week.
The death defying treacherous way to Pandu Pull
The never ending and extreme trail took a hard hit on everyone. I was so exhausted that my body didn’t even have the energy to feel the pain. We were walking like zombies with no expression. However, the chocolates and the candies came handy to give some boost of energy to travel the final miles. The extreme rush of euphoria that I felt on seeing the camping site from a distance is unparalleled. I don’t remember much after that except that I took ibuprofen before sleeping off in the tent and off course grudging the guide who brain washed us to take this trail. I think I had some joints and some ample amount of rum before that.
Day 6 / Pandu Pull - Mantalai
The mountains on one side and the stream flowing below on the other side made for the perfect camping site at Pandu Pull. Our tents were placed at the side of a huge rock that provided them some protection from the winds and was also used as a fireplace to cook. The view of the Parvati River from the campsite looked stunning; the fast flowing water was capable of taking down anything on its way.
Breakfast time at Pandu Pull
There were a lot of small animals that could be spotted around the camp in the morning.
Big fat rat near the campsite
Big fat rat near the campsite
We had rice and tasteless daal for breakfast. The absence of parathans in the morning was dearly felt as the 10 kg flour bag had to be thrown away the day before. With a questionable fitness level of the team, and the depleted ration, there was a lurking question in everyone’s mind whether we would be able to make it across the pass. Today we would be travelling a distance of 16 kms to reach Mantalai at a height of 13500 feet.
The trek today was through a beautiful valley with no vegetation at all. I could only see some wild flowers growing between the rocks and patches of yellow grasses at some parts.
Beautiful valley with yellow grass on the way to Mantalai
There were swathes of plain dry land interspersed with wet and marshy area along the riverbed. We had to cross numerous branches of the slow moving stream along our way. Being our 6th day on the trek, it got really difficult for the entire team.
Trekking along the river bed
The trek today was through a beautiful valley with no vegetation at all. I could only see some wild flowers growing between the rocks and patches of yellow grasses at some parts.
Beautiful valley with yellow grass on the way to Mantalai
There were swathes of plain dry land interspersed with wet and marshy area along the riverbed. We had to cross numerous branches of the slow moving stream along our way. Being our 6th day on the trek, it got really difficult for the entire team.
Trekking along the river bed
With almost zero elevation gain for the initial 90 % of the trek; the rest of the trek was the toughest part with the continuous climb over the perilous rocks. We had to make our way to the top by carefully placing our foot over the sharp fatal edges of rocks. A slip here would have meant a broken limb or some broken ribs. Some team members took rest between the climb and had chocolates for the last burst of energy needed to complete the trek. After the arduous climb, we could finally reach the Mantalai Lake located at the height of 13500 feet.
Lord Shivas meditation site
Lord Shivas meditation site
The Mantalai Glacier was clearly visible which is the source of this Lake and the river Parvati. We travelled further by 1 km to reach a dry camping spot away from the marshy land that was present at the beginning of the lake.
Camping site at Mantalai
Slowly and steadily, all the team members reached the campsite completely exhausted. But the unfaithful day had something more stored for us. As we were taking rest in our tents before the dinner, we heard something drizzling over our tents. I was amazed to hear someone shouting from outside that it was actually a snowfall. Initially we were all excited to see the snowfall and started taking some pictures outside. However the snowfall continued for a long time. At night, our tent collapsed owing to the depositing snow on our comparatively weak structured tents.
Heavy snowfall and collapsing tents
Thereafter, we took turns to constantly remove the heavy snow from our tents. Someone from any of the three tents would be always outside clearing off the snow that steadily deposited on top
The freezing temperature took a toll on almost everyone. Medicines for fever and body pain were circulated among the team members. Spirits were down and everyone doubted continuing further across the pass.
Day 7 / Mantalai - Pandu Pull
We woke up to the most beautiful morning of the whole trip. The sky was completely clear without a single spec of cloud. The layer of ice outside the tents seemed blue as the sun was still behind by the mountains. The Mantalai Lake stood serene and calm with the frost sitting on top of the lake. We were amidst this heavenly spot where Lord Shiva meditated, thousands of years ago.
Melting snow in the morning at Mantalai
We could see some new members who have joined us and pitched their tents near ours. A Czech couple along with two mountain dogs, from the other side has crossed the pass yesterday. A fire was lit up and some exchange of information took place over a hot cup of tea.
Hot tea and joints at a small campfire in the cold Morning
They said that they were delighted to spot us amidst this inclement weather. While we inquired about the condition of the pass, they asked us about the route to Kheerganga.After the morning tea, breakfast was served as we took an assessment of our present situation.
Firstly, the weather was unpredictable; the sky, which seemed clear and blue at this moment, could anytime start snowing. As it was the end of September, snow was definitely expected. If it snowed once again at the base camp, our tents would be unable to support and things could become worse. We thought that we were definitely ill equipped for a snowfall with these tents. The only tent that could stand a chance against the snow is the bigger one, which was accommodating the porters.
Secondly, our ration was insufficient to feed all of us for at least for 3 days. The food source has depleted specially because we had to throw away the 10 kg flour and a bag of rotten potatoes. In case, we had to return back from the base camp, we would have to starve for a day or two till we reach Kheerganga.
Thirdly, the fitness level of almost all the group members was down, specially, Jetendar who has dislocated his shoulder in the beginning of the first day.
After assessing the situation, we were all mentally ready to return back safely as a team. However, the Team leader and the Deputy team leader wanted to take the chance.
The resources were unevenly split and the team was divided into two. We as a group of 7 members and 3 porters, would return back to Pandu Pull today while the team of 2 members and 4 porters would be trekking to the base camp and try to attempt for the pass tomorrow.
The Team at Mantalai before breaking away
Camping site at Mantalai
Slowly and steadily, all the team members reached the campsite completely exhausted. But the unfaithful day had something more stored for us. As we were taking rest in our tents before the dinner, we heard something drizzling over our tents. I was amazed to hear someone shouting from outside that it was actually a snowfall. Initially we were all excited to see the snowfall and started taking some pictures outside. However the snowfall continued for a long time. At night, our tent collapsed owing to the depositing snow on our comparatively weak structured tents.
Heavy snowfall and collapsing tents
Thereafter, we took turns to constantly remove the heavy snow from our tents. Someone from any of the three tents would be always outside clearing off the snow that steadily deposited on top
The freezing temperature took a toll on almost everyone. Medicines for fever and body pain were circulated among the team members. Spirits were down and everyone doubted continuing further across the pass.
Day 7 / Mantalai - Pandu Pull
We woke up to the most beautiful morning of the whole trip. The sky was completely clear without a single spec of cloud. The layer of ice outside the tents seemed blue as the sun was still behind by the mountains. The Mantalai Lake stood serene and calm with the frost sitting on top of the lake. We were amidst this heavenly spot where Lord Shiva meditated, thousands of years ago.
Melting snow in the morning at Mantalai
We could see some new members who have joined us and pitched their tents near ours. A Czech couple along with two mountain dogs, from the other side has crossed the pass yesterday. A fire was lit up and some exchange of information took place over a hot cup of tea.
Hot tea and joints at a small campfire in the cold Morning
They said that they were delighted to spot us amidst this inclement weather. While we inquired about the condition of the pass, they asked us about the route to Kheerganga.After the morning tea, breakfast was served as we took an assessment of our present situation.
Firstly, the weather was unpredictable; the sky, which seemed clear and blue at this moment, could anytime start snowing. As it was the end of September, snow was definitely expected. If it snowed once again at the base camp, our tents would be unable to support and things could become worse. We thought that we were definitely ill equipped for a snowfall with these tents. The only tent that could stand a chance against the snow is the bigger one, which was accommodating the porters.
Secondly, our ration was insufficient to feed all of us for at least for 3 days. The food source has depleted specially because we had to throw away the 10 kg flour and a bag of rotten potatoes. In case, we had to return back from the base camp, we would have to starve for a day or two till we reach Kheerganga.
Thirdly, the fitness level of almost all the group members was down, specially, Jetendar who has dislocated his shoulder in the beginning of the first day.
After assessing the situation, we were all mentally ready to return back safely as a team. However, the Team leader and the Deputy team leader wanted to take the chance.
The resources were unevenly split and the team was divided into two. We as a group of 7 members and 3 porters, would return back to Pandu Pull today while the team of 2 members and 4 porters would be trekking to the base camp and try to attempt for the pass tomorrow.
The Team at Mantalai before breaking away
After that, we started for Pandu pull, which will be our day’s destination. We reached our camping site before the sunset. The camp was set up at the same place as before. The stove was with the other team; as a result we had to get some timber wood from the nearby small shrubs.
Limited resource & limited skills -preparing food at Pandu Pull
By night we had shrugged off the whole episode and started enjoying the huge campfire that was set. We also invited the Czech couple for dinner, who located us before sunset and camped at the same place. Tasteless Khidchi was cooked with the limited resources available.
Day 8 / Pandu Pull- Tunda Bhuj- Kheerganga
We woke up at the earliest possible time after sunrise, as daylight was a very important resource for today. Our food resources were completely exhausted as a result we had no option but to reach Kheerganga by sunset. We have to travel for more than 32 kms in a single day and make for a two days worth of trek by skipping Tunda Bhuj in between.
Limited resource & limited skills -preparing food at Pandu Pull
By night we had shrugged off the whole episode and started enjoying the huge campfire that was set. We also invited the Czech couple for dinner, who located us before sunset and camped at the same place. Tasteless Khidchi was cooked with the limited resources available.
Day 8 / Pandu Pull- Tunda Bhuj- Kheerganga
We woke up at the earliest possible time after sunrise, as daylight was a very important resource for today. Our food resources were completely exhausted as a result we had no option but to reach Kheerganga by sunset. We have to travel for more than 32 kms in a single day and make for a two days worth of trek by skipping Tunda Bhuj in between.
We cooked our last packets of Maggie available with us. Stale rice with Maggie was served at breakfast. The Maggie soup mixed with the rice added a bit of flavour to make the mixture easy to gulp. We knew that every bit of carb in our body would make it easier at the trail.
We started immediately after breakfast at 8 am through the same route. Walking down the trail now seemed more difficult. Every step down the trail with the heavy backpack and your entire body weight leaves a high impact on the knees. Adding on to the menace is the scorching hot sun piercing through every layer of apparel.
We were completely exhausted by the time we reached Tunda Bhuj at Noon.
Site of Tunda Bhuj from a distance
We started immediately after breakfast at 8 am through the same route. Walking down the trail now seemed more difficult. Every step down the trail with the heavy backpack and your entire body weight leaves a high impact on the knees. Adding on to the menace is the scorching hot sun piercing through every layer of apparel.
We were completely exhausted by the time we reached Tunda Bhuj at Noon.
Site of Tunda Bhuj from a distance
After a break of 15 mins, we resumed our final stretch of trek for Kheer Ganga. The only thing that kept me moving is the thought of taking an evening bath at the Hot Spring water pool.
The trail through the pine forest area leading to Kheerganga
The trail through the pine forest area leading to Kheerganga
Famished that I was, in the final miles, I motivated myself with the cheese omelet and a bottle of coke that I would be having on reaching Kheerganga. Cravings are at their best on treks
It was a sight for sore eyes as we reached Kheer ganga. I felt like a wounded war hero returning back to civilisation. We took our accommodation in a dharamshala.
Our beautiful lodge at Kheerganga
We dumped our bagages and immediately went for the Hot spring to relax our sore muscles. After satisfying all our cravings in the evening, we retired to our lodge. It is the first time in the trek that we were sleeping outside the cramped up tents and sleeping bags. The feeling was totally liberating.
Day 9, 10 & 11/ Kheerganga- Pulga- Kasol- New Delhi
On the ninth day, we departed for Pulga at 12 am after our leisurely morning brunch.
Picking up fresh juicy apples from godown at Nakthan
The 6 hours long trek to Pulga was equally tough as my sore muscles were still recovering from yesterdays torture. After reaching Kasol at 8 pm, we dumped our luggages at a lodge and went out for a sumptuous dinner in one of those fancy restaurants that served Israeli food. We explored more areas of Kasol on the tenth day and then departed for Delhi in the evening from Bhuntar by an overnight Volvo bus.
On the eleventh day, we were back at ISBT Kashmeree Gate, New Delhi, fully tanned and tired.
It was a sight for sore eyes as we reached Kheer ganga. I felt like a wounded war hero returning back to civilisation. We took our accommodation in a dharamshala.
Our beautiful lodge at Kheerganga
We dumped our bagages and immediately went for the Hot spring to relax our sore muscles. After satisfying all our cravings in the evening, we retired to our lodge. It is the first time in the trek that we were sleeping outside the cramped up tents and sleeping bags. The feeling was totally liberating.
Day 9, 10 & 11/ Kheerganga- Pulga- Kasol- New Delhi
On the ninth day, we departed for Pulga at 12 am after our leisurely morning brunch.
Picking up fresh juicy apples from godown at Nakthan
The 6 hours long trek to Pulga was equally tough as my sore muscles were still recovering from yesterdays torture. After reaching Kasol at 8 pm, we dumped our luggages at a lodge and went out for a sumptuous dinner in one of those fancy restaurants that served Israeli food. We explored more areas of Kasol on the tenth day and then departed for Delhi in the evening from Bhuntar by an overnight Volvo bus.
On the eleventh day, we were back at ISBT Kashmeree Gate, New Delhi, fully tanned and tired.
