Standard Chartered Mumbai Marathon 2016 - an experience of a first Marathon

There are so many reasons that I started running, so many reasons that I wouldn’t have continued but only one reason that kept me going. Yeah, I wanted to complete a Marathon before I turned 30 and it was high on my bucket list.

Someone told me that if its your first marathon, its got to be Standard Chartered Mumbai Marathon. And here I was standing at the line up section at the start of the race at CST. There was a feeling of apprehension and excitement, standing among the crowd in the dark and cold morning, waiting for the gun to fire.

I was apprehensive because, I felt I didn’t do much justice to my already under prepared training since I landed at Mumbai yesterday morning.

Besides having a stomach upset because of the spicy food at yesterdays lunch, I could barely get a sleep of 2 and a half hours at night. Earlier this morning, I boarded the local train from Thane station at 3:30 which was full of SCMM participants. I met this runner on the train, who also came from Delhi for his first marathon and, oh boy, was he prepared. He had ticked the entire array of checklist right from following a dedicated running plan, Carbo loading for the entire week to carrying gel bars for the race. Forget sticking to a training plan, my longest run in the past month hadn’t exceeded 10k. Forget Carbo loading, the breakfast that I had this morning was just 2 slices of bread and a banana. I was afraid whether it was too soon that I am attempting my Full Marathon. After all I was just 1.5 years into running and mere 2 half marathon old.

Well it was not that I was less informed. I had read tons of articles on running diet, exercise and training schedules. However, you just don’t get enough time out of the work schedule, parties and the drinking. I remember how I used to sometimes change into my running attire in my car at the traffic light just to save some precious time for running.

The race begins [pic courtesy SCMM 2016]

The countdown ended and the race started. It was exactly 5:40 by the clock. The historic Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus at the starting of the race looked stunning. The feeling of running on the dark streets of Mumbai under the street lights was incomparable to anything. I was surprised to see a lot of supporting crowd early at this hour.

In the initial stretch of 4 kms till Nariman Point, I found myself to be running rather slow owing to the packed runners on the road.  There were slow runners blocking your way and there were fast runners zipping past you. Although, I didn’t have a pacing strategy, the idea was to run by feel and target a finish time of a respectable 4 hours: 15 minute. However, as the race progressed till marine drive, the roads were wide open and I adjusted to my own comfortable pace. Running along the sea side amid the electrifying crowd and the Indian Navy band playing out just for you, felt like a deep privilege.

After crossing Chowpathy, at 10 km there was the dreaded Peddar road flyover which posed a real challenge as I felt slightly drained out of energy. And then, when there are volunteers handing out Energal and the crowd offering you bananas, you couldn’t feel much better.

The Worli- Bandra sea link at km 16 looked calm and poised. Today is the only day of the year when this bridge is thrown open to runners; a special privilege only for the SCMM participants. The sun rising precisely at that moment with sea on both sides of the bridge made for a good scenic view. A good occasion for the runners to pause and click pictures. Running the 6 kms stretch and inhaling the best possible air in Mumbai was a bliss.

Runners at the Worli-Bandra Sea link [pic courtesy SCMM 2016]

At the 21k timing mat, I registered a 2 hr 9 mins time which seemed acceptable and I continued at the same pace till  26k. That’s when I felt a mild headache and dizziness. Hitting the wall was the last thing I wanted today and I started walking for the first time in the race. That was when I learnt that it was damn difficult to start running again after a walk break.

At 30k, the elite Kenyan runners had started overtaking me with their long strides at cruising speed. I could feel the wind gushing at me as the other runners made way for them. The Indian elite runners were behind them by around 5 mins and I did recognize Nitendra Singh Rawat who was leading the pack.

At this point, my innermost toe which was rubbing against the shoe became worse. I knew that there was definitely a painful blister waiting to burst at any moment. The shoe that I was wearing was just a week old and was bought online at a highly discounted price. The price difference came with the ill fit and probably a damaged product which I realized just during the race.  It was a learning, the hardest way, for not trying anything new on race day.

My mind told me that It was impossible to carry on, while the pain in my legs supported that argument. My marathon had precisely begun at this time. I reminded myself that it was a mind over matter game. I just had to divert my mind away from the pain; which was easier said then done.The race from here on was a walk and run routine with the walk breaks getting larger and larger towards the end.

While a lot of beautiful girls in the crowd at Peddar road, 36k mark, did divert my mind for few seconds; a placard reading” Pain is temporary, Pride is Permanent” did really boost me up for the remaining race.

And in the end when the hours and hours of pounding on the asphalt exhausted me of all the energy, you had the crowd offering you salted oranges, bananas, chocolate bars, energy drinks, Parle G biscuits, home made cakes, candies to name a few.

And who could forget the strategically placed mist zones in the final kms. These water sprinkled mist zone tunnels would act like oasis in the desert taking away all the body heat and leaving you refreshed.

In the final 4 kms, when I was walking like the dead, it seemed that the whole of Mumbai had come out to cheer and resurrect me. I still remember the pretty girl in red top who literally came to my face and told me not to give up. I really thought that I was getting lucky but that’s a different story. I couldn’t have disappointed such a pretty lady and started running again.

Finally, I saw the last km mark. I couldn’t believe that I was so near but still far. That is when I told myself and every inch of my aching body, that I wouldn’t be walking this part. I pulled myself up, and started running with my head looking straight towards the finish line. The next moment, I found myself sprinting the last 100 meters and then, I took my final step across the finish line, 4hrs and 35 mins after I began.

Final yards to the finish line

The feeling of defying all odds, competing against myself and completing my first full marathon cant be described. It was the best feeling in the whole world. The pain, the exhaustion, the breathlessness and everything else sunk in the background; what was left was the divine feeling of pure bliss and accomplishment. I felt like a different person, more like a superhuman, invincible till the end. And yes this was an achievement, I proudly ticked off my bucket list. 

Trekking to Pin Parvati Pass

Pin Parvati Pass is one of the most challenging treks in India, which begins in the Parvati Valley in Kullu and ends in Pin Valley in Spiti. The 8 days trek begins at Pulga, a place 10 kms from Manikaran, and continues across several villages as well as alpine mountains, meadows and lakes. Before reaching in Spiti Valley, one has to cross the Pin Parvati Pass 5219 m (17,122 ft.), which is the highest point of the trek. On the other side of the pass, before driving back to Manali through Rohtang Pass, one can explore the beautiful Spiti valley and spend some time at Kaza with all the Buddhist monasteries.


Mantalai lake camp site



A team of 9 members from office would attempt to cross the pass in the month of September 2013. I was overwhelmed and thrilled to have been selected in the advanced team for this company-sponsored trek.

Our week-long preparation for the trek ended on 19th September as we left Delhi for Bhuntar on an overnight Volvo ride.

Day 2 / Bhuntar-Manikaran

We reached Bhuntar at around 8 am on the morning of 20th. While we got down at Bhuntar, the bus continued towards Kullu. Two pre arranged cab took 2 hours to Manikaran along the scenic roads and towns, meandering along the river Parvati. The dreamy town of Kasol, 4 kms before reaching Manikaran looked exotic with the foreign crowd and cafes along the road.

We reached the famous Gurudwara of Manikaran at 10 am where we would be crashing for the night. The authorities happily gave us one huge single room. After dumping our tents and bags in the room, we didn’t wait much longer to take a dip in the hot spring water pool that is located inside the Gurudwara. Cleansed and purified in the medicinal water, we headed for our sumptuous langar meal that is cooked in the hot boiling water of the spring.

After spending the luxurious afternoon at the Gurudwara, it was then time for an evening party. One of the best parts of trekking in the Himalayas is that you also get to explore and dig out a lot of beautiful lesser-known places. At around 4 pm, 4 of us hitchhiked the 4 kms to the town of Kasol.

Kasol

Kasol has recently transformed into a hub for backpackers, who are attracted to the scenic valley, untouched hills, low population, and great climate throughout the year. I could see that the majority of the visitors were from Israel, as a result, the Hebrew language banners were visible throughout the Valley.




Hanging Iron bridge over the river Parvati

It was a pleasant cold evening while we walked down the main road, which was flanked with cafes and restaurants on either side with the view of mountains at the back. While you could find exotic Israeli food in the restaurants, you could illegally procure quality hash from the cafes. As we walked inside the cafes to inquire about weed and kerosene, we were also thrown invites for Psychedelic Trance parties. It would have been a crime not to accept this trance-open barbeque party invitation at Kasol-tents scheduled for the late evening. Since we had plenty of time before that, we explored the other side of Kasol, across the river. It was famous for some exotic cafes and had to be reached through a hanging - shaky iron bridge.



Trance party at Kasol Tents

Low outside sittings at the cold ground with bonfire to keep you warm; hot barbequed chicken with chilled beers; the weed joints and the Israeli Singer playing the unplugged guitar; everything seamlessly integrated to bring the magic alive.

“ Full power, 24 hours, no toilet no shower,” the singer sang while I closed my eyes and took a deep-deep puff, putting myself into a reverie.

We hitchhiked a truck while returning to Manikaran and retired to our huge room in the Gurudwara.

Day 3 / Manikaran-Pulga-Kheerganga

We left the Gurudwara at around 8 am in the cold and windy morning. We loaded our bags, tents and provisions on the jeep and departed towards Pulga through Barseni road.


Infront of Gurudwara at Manikaran

It was a 12 kms bouncy and jerky ride to Pulga at the back of our open jeep. A dam by NHPC, was being built at the site on the river Parvati. This was the point from where we started our trek to Kheer Ganga, a climb of around 16 kms.


Dam over river Parvati at Pulga 

The trek was mostly uphill and proved to be very tiring. The beautiful village of Nakthan accompanied us for the initial part of the trek. It had a lot of apple orchards from where we had some fresh and juicy organic apples.


Initial part of the trek leading to Nakthan


The beautiful village of Nakhtan


Babaji's Ashram at Rudranaag 

An old Wooden bridge

We passed through Rudranaag Ashram, a religious place located halfway. Beyond Rudranaag, the trail had a steep ascent that led our tired legs through thick pine forests to the spiritual site of Kheerganga located at around 2960 meters.

Kheerganga-

I knew that the exhaustive 4 hrs trek was over when I saw this picturesque meadow surrounded by mountains and pine forests on all sides. There were a lot of huts, basically restaurants and lodges, on either side of the steep path that led us to the top of the hill where we set our camps at an open ground beside a water source.





Exploring Kheer Ganga


Numerous hut restaurants at Kheerganga

By the time we settled down, had Maggie and tea, it was already late in the evening. Steady chilly winds started blowing in near the campsite. The dark clouds slowly started settling down in the valley. The sun was already behind the mountains. It was the perfect time to set off for the main experience that Kheerganga has to offer; a purifying bath in the hot Spring water pool.

The pool located at the top of the hill, is continuously fed boiling hot sulphur-water that comes from beneath the rocks. The used water drains continuously keeping the pool very fresh.



Camping Site at Kheerganga

It was a mind numbing and body shattering experience, trying to take a dip in the boiling hot pool at that freezing temperature. However, you slowly adjust to the temperature, which becomes very comfortable within moments relaxing all your sore muscles. It was an experience of extreme comfort unparalleled to anything; it was almost impossible for me to leave the pool even after an hour.


Relaxing in the Hot Spring water pool

After the pool experience, late in the evening, we retired to one of the hut restaurants. We occupied a cozy spot near the fireplace. Old Monk rum with cheese omelet was served while we discussed strategies for the rest of the trek. It was a perfect end to the amazing day.


Old Monk at the cosy hut restaurant

Day 4 / Kheerganga- Tunda Bhuj

The morning at Kheerganga was cold and misty. Delicious breakfast cooked in timber wood followed after the blissful hot spring water bath. After breakfast, we left for tunda bhuj, our next destination at a height of 12,600 feet and roughly 15 kms away.


Geared up to depart for Tunda Bhuj

The trek is along the steep side of a gorge that cuts through mountains and provides a way for the river Parvati. We started through the dense forest area, populated with long pine trees. The trek in the forest area seemed to repeat itself at every corner and remained steep for the most part. It started drizzling which made the terrain slippery and very dangerous. To make matters worse, our backpacks gave way to the water that percolated and got absorbed to make the bags heavier.


Posing in the rains

We had to go through wooden bridges, lot of small streams and over the slippery sharp rocks



Balancing act over a log bridge

Halfway into the trek and the vegetation totally changed. The long pine trees gave way to small shrubs and grasses. The trek turned steeper and it became tougher to continue.



Need to be very careful while crossing a slippery waterfall

Finally after a lot of struggle, we reached Tunda Bhuj. On reaching, we headed straight into the wooden hut and sat beside the warm fire that was already set by our porters.



The picturesque abandoned Hut at Tunda Bhuj-Camping site

Our tents were set on the side of the hut. We changed our wet clothes, and had hot tea and Maggie. The temperature came down rapidly as the sun set behind the mountains. In the evening, a bonfire was lit which made our tired sprits come alive.


Setting up the Camp fire

After having rice and daal cooked in the evening we all went inside our tents. My body was paining heavily due to all the exertion that my body suffered in the past two days.

Day 5 / Tunda Bhuj - Pandu Pull

Coming out of the cramped up sleeping bags and the claustrophobic tents seems very liberating in the morning. The ibuprofen tablets seemed to have worked for me, as I felt good to trek.


Misty morning at Tunda Bhuj

The tents had due drops all over them which was the reason why the night felt a bit colder. Toilets were not available for the first time on the trip. We had to climb down the hill with an empty bottle to the stream flowing below in order to freshen up.

After freshening up, we disassembled our tents. We kept our wet clothes from previous day to dry in the sun and waited for the food that was being cooked by our porters. However, some things were not easy this morning. Apart from me burning a part of my shoe while trying to dry it near the fire, we also had to go empty stomach. The chapattis that were served had the strong unbearable smell of diesel. The diesel spilt into the flour while being carried by the porters the previous day. The taste was horrible and I felt like puking at the moment. Disappointed with the breakfast, I had my only hope on the chocolates and candies to be consumed during the trek.

Having diesel mixed parathans

Our destination today was Pandu Pull, which is located at a distance of 16 kms from Tunda Bhuj. Until this time, we were travelling, upstream on the right hand side of the river Parvati. However, the camping site of Pandu pull was on the left side of the river. That meant we had to do some crossing over today.

The trek began with a steep descent and took us to this perilous hanging wooden bridge. The bridge which had its railing broken on one side and precariously tilted on the other side managed to still function and provide passage.

Tedha Pull

The porters, who also functioned as guides, advised us to cross it one at a time to avoid any wobbling. A fall from the bridge into the fast flowing freezing water would have surely put lives on immediate danger.


Preparing to cross the Tedha Pull

After safely crossing the bridge, we trekked for another 4 kms to reach this place called Thakur kuan, which is also a camping site.


A long break at Thakur Kuan

Now, there were two ways to reach Pandu pull from Thakur Kuan. The first one, which is frequented, by most of the trekkers is by crossing the river by a trolley ropeway system at Thakur Kuan, travelling along the river and crossing over at Pandu Pull again to the left side to reach the camping site. The other way is to remain on the left side of the river as we were and travel along the river to reach our camping site at Pandu Pull. We decided to avoid the crossing over part and take the route that is seldom taken; which came with a hefty price

The trek was way lengthier and dangerous than the other. The trail ran across steep sided mountains, which were insanely barren. On top of that, there were landslides with gravelly patches. A single slide at these sections would have meant a straight 50 meters drop with nothing to hold on to. There could be two possibilities when you slip; first possibility is that you are dead; second possibility is that you survive with multiple broken body parts and heavy bleeding. In the 2nd case, you would still be dead with no rescue operation for at least a week.


The death defying treacherous way to Pandu Pull

The never ending and extreme trail took a hard hit on everyone. I was so exhausted that my body didn’t even have the energy to feel the pain. We were walking like zombies with no expression. However, the chocolates and the candies came handy to give some boost of energy to travel the final miles. The extreme rush of euphoria that I felt on seeing the camping site from a distance is unparalleled. I don’t remember much after that except that I took ibuprofen before sleeping off in the tent and off course grudging the guide who brain washed us to take this trail. I think I had some joints and some ample amount of rum before that.

Day 6 / Pandu Pull - Mantalai

The mountains on one side and the stream flowing below on the other side made for the perfect camping site at Pandu Pull. Our tents were placed at the side of a huge rock that provided them some protection from the winds and was also used as a fireplace to cook. The view of the Parvati River from the campsite looked stunning; the fast flowing water was capable of taking down anything on its way.


Breakfast time at Pandu Pull

There were a lot of small animals that could be spotted around the camp in the morning.


Big fat rat near the campsite

We had rice and tasteless daal for breakfast. The absence of parathans in the morning was dearly felt as the 10 kg flour bag had to be thrown away the day before. With a questionable fitness level of the team, and the depleted ration, there was a lurking question in everyone’s mind whether we would be able to make it across the pass. Today we would be travelling a distance of 16 kms to reach Mantalai at a height of 13500 feet.
The trek today was through a beautiful valley with no vegetation at all. I could only see some wild flowers growing between the rocks and patches of yellow grasses at some parts.



Beautiful valley with yellow grass on the way to Mantalai

There were swathes of plain dry land interspersed with wet and marshy area along the riverbed. We had to cross numerous branches of the slow moving stream along our way. Being our 6th day on the trek, it got really difficult for the entire team.


Trekking along the river bed

With almost zero elevation gain for the initial 90 % of the trek; the rest of the trek was the toughest part with the continuous climb over the perilous rocks. We had to make our way to the top by carefully placing our foot over the sharp fatal edges of rocks. A slip here would have meant a broken limb or some broken ribs. Some team members took rest between the climb and had chocolates for the last burst of energy needed to complete the trek. After the arduous climb, we could finally reach the Mantalai Lake located at the height of 13500 feet.


Lord Shivas meditation site

The Mantalai Glacier was clearly visible which is the source of this Lake and the river Parvati. We travelled further by 1 km to reach a dry camping spot away from the marshy land that was present at the beginning of the lake.


Camping site at Mantalai

Slowly and steadily, all the team members reached the campsite completely exhausted. But the unfaithful day had something more stored for us. As we were taking rest in our tents before the dinner, we heard something drizzling over our tents. I was amazed to hear someone shouting from outside that it was actually a snowfall. Initially we were all excited to see the snowfall and started taking some pictures outside. However the snowfall continued for a long time. At night, our tent collapsed owing to the depositing snow on our comparatively weak structured tents.



Heavy snowfall and collapsing tents

Thereafter, we took turns to constantly remove the heavy snow from our tents. Someone from any of the three tents would be always outside clearing off the snow that steadily deposited on top

The freezing temperature took a toll on almost everyone. Medicines for fever and body pain were circulated among the team members. Spirits were down and everyone doubted continuing further across the pass.

Day 7 / Mantalai - Pandu Pull

We woke up to the most beautiful morning of the whole trip. The sky was completely clear without a single spec of cloud. The layer of ice outside the tents seemed blue as the sun was still behind by the mountains. The Mantalai Lake stood serene and calm with the frost sitting on top of the lake. We were amidst this heavenly spot where Lord Shiva meditated, thousands of years ago.


Melting snow in the morning at Mantalai

We could see some new members who have joined us and pitched their tents near ours. A Czech couple along with two mountain dogs, from the other side has crossed the pass yesterday. A fire was lit up and some exchange of information took place over a hot cup of tea.


Hot tea and joints at a small campfire in the cold Morning

They said that they were delighted to spot us amidst this inclement weather. While we inquired about the condition of the pass, they asked us about the route to Kheerganga.After the morning tea, breakfast was served as we took an assessment of our present situation.

Firstly, the weather was unpredictable; the sky, which seemed clear and blue at this moment, could anytime start snowing. As it was the end of September, snow was definitely expected. If it snowed once again at the base camp, our tents would be unable to support and things could become worse. We thought that we were definitely ill equipped for a snowfall with these tents. The only tent that could stand a chance against the snow is the bigger one, which was accommodating the porters.

Secondly, our ration was insufficient to feed all of us for at least for 3 days. The food source has depleted specially because we had to throw away the 10 kg flour and a bag of rotten potatoes. In case, we had to return back from the base camp, we would have to starve for a day or two till we reach Kheerganga.

Thirdly, the fitness level of almost all the group members was down, specially, Jetendar who has dislocated his shoulder in the beginning of the first day.

After assessing the situation, we were all mentally ready to return back safely as a team. However, the Team leader and the Deputy team leader wanted to take the chance.

The resources were unevenly split and the team was divided into two. We as a group of 7 members and 3 porters, would return back to Pandu Pull today while the team of 2 members and 4 porters would be trekking to the base camp and try to attempt for the pass tomorrow.


The Team at Mantalai before breaking away

After that, we started for Pandu pull, which will be our day’s destination. We reached our camping site before the sunset. The camp was set up at the same place as before. The stove was with the other team; as a result we had to get some timber wood from the nearby small shrubs.



Limited resource & limited skills -preparing food at Pandu Pull

By night we had shrugged off the whole episode and started enjoying the huge campfire that was set. We also invited the Czech couple for dinner, who located us before sunset and camped at the same place. Tasteless Khidchi was cooked with the limited resources available.

Day 8 / Pandu Pull- Tunda Bhuj- Kheerganga

We woke up at the earliest possible time after sunrise, as daylight was a very important resource for today. Our food resources were completely exhausted as a result we had no option but to reach Kheerganga by sunset. We have to travel for more than 32 kms in a single day and make for a two days worth of trek by skipping Tunda Bhuj in between.

We cooked our last packets of Maggie available with us. Stale rice with Maggie was served at breakfast. The Maggie soup mixed with the rice added a bit of flavour to make the mixture easy to gulp. We knew that every bit of carb in our body would make it easier at the trail.

We started immediately after breakfast at 8 am through the same route. Walking down the trail now seemed more difficult. Every step down the trail with the heavy backpack and your entire body weight leaves a high impact on the knees. Adding on to the menace is the scorching hot sun piercing through every layer of apparel.

We were completely exhausted by the time we reached Tunda Bhuj at Noon.



Site of Tunda Bhuj from a distance

After a break of 15 mins, we resumed our final stretch of trek for Kheer Ganga. The only thing that kept me moving is the thought of taking an evening bath at the Hot Spring water pool.



The trail through the pine forest area leading to Kheerganga

Famished that I was, in the final miles, I motivated myself with the cheese omelet and a bottle of coke that I would be having on reaching Kheerganga. Cravings are at their best on treks

It was a sight for sore eyes as we reached Kheer ganga. I felt like a wounded war hero returning back to civilisation. We took our accommodation in a dharamshala.


Our beautiful lodge at Kheerganga

We dumped our bagages and immediately went for the Hot spring to relax our sore muscles. After satisfying all our cravings in the evening, we retired to our lodge. It is the first time in the trek that we were sleeping outside the cramped up tents and sleeping bags. The feeling was totally liberating.

Day 9, 10 & 11/ Kheerganga- Pulga- Kasol- New Delhi

On the ninth day, we departed for Pulga at 12 am after our leisurely morning brunch.



Picking up fresh juicy apples from godown at Nakthan

The 6 hours long trek to Pulga was equally tough as my sore muscles were still recovering from yesterdays torture. After reaching Kasol at 8 pm, we dumped our luggages at a lodge and went out for a sumptuous dinner in one of those fancy restaurants that served Israeli food. We explored more areas of Kasol on the tenth day and then departed for Delhi in the evening from Bhuntar by an overnight Volvo bus.
On the eleventh day, we were back at ISBT Kashmeree Gate, New Delhi, fully tanned and tired.

Ride to the highest roads in the world- a motorcycle trip to Leh

HOW IT TRANSPIRED

The much sought after trip for bikers in India as well as around the world is the biking trip to Leh. Thousands of bikers from around the world come to this part of India to experience the most challenging roads, diverse weather conditions and the most scenic and untouched places. Having been inspired by Che Guevera’s, Motorcycle Diaries during my college days, I always had this bug inside me calling out to take a bike trip to Leh. Well with excuses galore, I obviously couldn't make it until now when this opportunity for an official bike trip to Leh came up.

"An official 14 days trip sponsored by the company with paid leaves and reimbursement of expenses incurred” was what the biking circular read. There has been no looking back since then. No overpowering bosses or over caring mother or a nagging girlfriend could have stopped me from taking this trip; there were none though. Surprisingly!

As I have lived the dream and completed the road trip on a bike in 14 amazing days covering 3000 odd km with a team of 14 dare devil bikers, it would be an injustice, not to share my experience through this blog.

The route taken 

WARMING UP THE ENGINE

I had never prepared or planned, in my entire lifetime for any exam or job Interview or for that matter anything, in such detail and dedication, as I have for this trip over a period of 1 month. The first thing that I did was to make a list of items required to be taken on the trip. Striking off each item from the longest list, known to mankind,  everyday, gave me a real high. 

Preparation can be divided into two parts, the first is to, make your bike Leh ready and the other is to make your Ass Bike Ready.

MAKING THE BIKE LEH READY

Well, for being a first time biker , I would like to be excused (in this part of the world) for having a Bajaj Avenger 220 instead of a Royal Enfield model (Bajaj Avenger 220 rocked and performed to the core though). 

As I was aware of the trouble that one goes through with the lack of a kick in a bike, the very first thing that I did was to take my bike to a service station and get it checked and serviced, paying special attention to the parts concerned with the self-start. It included replacing the old batteries, checking the fuses, replacing engine oil, replacing disc etc. All other checks and replacement of worn out parts is most essential because in a trip like this, you are as good as your bike.

The following is the list of items that I took care to take with me for the bike:

• Clutch and throttle wire
• Spark plugs
• Chain lock
• Extra tube (front and back Tyre)
• Electric wire
• Duct tape/black tape
• Tool box
• Saddle Bags (Some people put carrier made of iron rods which is not a good idea as it adds to the weight of the bike and also has a nuisance value once broken)
• Bungee cords( four numbers)
• Puncture kit ( Shared with the group)
• Air Pump(Shared with the group)
• Engine Oil ( Shared with the group)

MAKING YOUR ASS BIKE READY

Surviving 14 days in these conditions requires you to be equipped with all the proper biking gears along with other necessary items. One should be prepared to face all weather conditions ranging from rain to snow.

I equipped myself with the following items:

• Leather Jacket for cold weather (a substitute for a bikers jacket)
• Wind Cheater cum Rain Coat
• Two pairs of gloves (one for city driving conditions and the other to protect from rain and cold)
• Ankle and Knee guard
• Shoes with ankle protection
• A pair of Ray Ban sun glasses
• A pair of thermocot 
• Two pairs of Buff- head wear( one woolen and the other cotton)
• Two jeans and one trek pants.
• Three T-shirts( dry fit sportswear preferably)
• Four pair of socks
• Optimum number of undergarments 
• Swiss knife( I found it very useful throughout the Journey)
• Camera with extra battery( A portable power bank to recharge cell phone is also quiet handy)
• Toilet kit 
• Sunscreen (SPF 50)
• To safeguard oneself from AMS, Diamox 250 Mg is an essential medicine to be carried besides other lifesaving drugs

The group also carried a first aid kit and plenty of other common medicines. 

In the end you must remember that "Saddlebags can never hold everything you want, but they can hold everything you need"~anonymous

WHEELS ON THE ROLL

“The game starts with a full pot of luck and an empty pot of experience. The object is to fill the pot of experience before you empty the pot of luck” ~ anonymous 

DAY 1/ DELHI - JALANDHAR/ 405 KM

Heat, dust, sweat, back pain,  and more heat

The journey began in the morning of 28th June as our team assembled at a common point at 6 am in Noida. After the customary photographs, the 14 days epic trip was flagged off by our officials. Finally, the much awaited journey had begun. Our day’s destination, Jalandhar, was 400 km away. The morning breeze and the shining sun greeted us as we hit the NH1 Highway. We had a pit stop at Sukhdev ka Dhaba, Murthal to energize ourselves for the day with mind blowing Parathans.

First Group Pic / Sukhdev Dhaba Parking/ Murthal/ Ashutosh, Yougank, Rahul and Me

At that point, our group was joined by two more extremely experienced bikers turning us into a group of 14. The journey beyond that was tough due to the high temperature and scorching sun accompanied with back and leg pain. On top of that, my bike started to show some never seen before self-starting problem which troubled me for the next 2 days. With much trouble, we reached Jalandhar at around 6 pm. Although we were tired with the heat, dust and sweat, the spirits were high; as we retired to our rooms in a motel.  Beer and good company is what you get in these trips, after a day of hard work.

Day 1 is always the toughest part of a biking journey as your ass tries to become accustomed to sitting on the bike for hours resulting in back and leg pain. Also, to avoid dehydration, one needs to take frequent breaks and re-hydrate the body with lots of fluids.

DAY 2/ JALANDHAR- PATNITOP/ 338 KM)

“When the breeze hits your knees, you forget what you do for a living” ~ anonymous 

With the tanks filled to the brim, we started for our next destination, Patnitop about 285 km away. Accompanied with the cloudy weather and intermittent drizzling, the 80 km ride to Pathankot in the broad and smooth roads, proved to be of pure, unadulterated bliss. After stuffing ourselves with Parathans at Pathankot, we headed towards Udhampur .The loaded trucks and hairpin bends repeated themselves while my biking skills were put to the test. Our troubled bikes, took a lease of breath as they visited their respective service station at Udhampur.  After my bike's self-start problem got resolved with a lot of troubleshooting at the Bajaj Service station, we had lunch and headed for Patnitop. With the soaring temperature and the stand still traffic, our average speed was almost reduced to 10 km per hour.  However as they say that happiness often comes from comparing, it was a happy moment, over taking all the stand still traffic km after km and making our way to Patnitop .

We were completely covered with dust and sweat as we reached Patnitop. In the evening, we went for a hike in the nearby hill beside our hotel to enjoy the chilly climate and beautiful view. 

View of Patnitop- Among the pine and cedar trees at the evening sunset 

Having Rum and chit chatting with fellow bikers in the first cold evening of the trip added to the experience.

DAY 3/ PATNITOP - SONMARG/ 260 KM

“Sometimes you need a whole tank of petrol before you can think straight” ~ some God level anonymous guy

Waking up early in the morning, packing your saddle bags and fastening it to the bike are the most boring things in the whole world.

We left Patnitop at around 6 am and crossed Jawahar Tunnel at around 10:30 am in the morning. Crossing the one way 2.85 km long, dark and cold tunnel was definitely the coolest thing of the day. The tunnel is the only lifeline connecting Kashmir to Jammu and is maintained by the BRO of the Indian Army. I was totally surprised to see a complete change of vegetation and landscape after crossing the dark and cold tunnel . Although the temperature was a bit on the higher side, the beautiful valley of Kashmir was breath taking.

We reached Srinagar at 1 pm and had a brief stop near the Dal Lake. We continued our ride under the scorching sun towards Sonmarg and had our lunch, after some 20 km outside of Srinagar. After lunch, as we approached, Sonmarg, the weather became gloomy and it started to drizzle. The ride through the picturesque road and beautiful valley was amazing. 

On the way to Sonmarg

Spectacular view of the valley of Sonmarg

The Chilly and misty wind greeted us and our bikes, as we entered Sonmarg through the bridge, in the evening. We got ourselves accommodated  at a cozy wooden cottage of J&K tourism which had a beautiful lawn covered with the greenest grass.

Bikes parked in front of J&K Guest House at Sonmarg

In the evening, some of us, went for petrol hunting as it was learnt that there was no petrol pump before Kargil and there existed none at Sonmarg. Fortunately we could get some 10 liters of petrol from a hoarder at 90 Rs per liter which we distributed among the poorest members who had half filled tanks .

The next day, we had to cross Zoji la  at 11,575 ft which was apparently the toughest pass of the whole trip.  We were briefed by our team leader, in the evening regarding the toughness level and to ride in a particular sequence so that we are able to keep a tab of every person. Ridding with half clutch had to be strictly avoided as it might result in burning of the clutch plates. We were expecting muddy roads, melting snow and steep terrain. All the members who have done this pass earlier, dreaded it, owing to bad experience like burnt clutch plates and being stuck in the mud.

Only one way traffic movement could happen at the pass at a given time as a result, the way from Sonmarg to Kargil would open only at 1:30 pm the next day; which meant a lazy and happy morning.

Rahul Chandra, although a seasoned biker,  had a sleepless night, not because of the difficulty of the pass but because of his half empty tank; which actually explains the quote at the beginning of day 3. 

DAY 4/ SONMARG - DRASS/ 70KM

"If you don't ride in the rain, you don't ride." ~ anonymous

  

I woke up late at around 9 am from the cozy bed in the cold and misty morning and had a lazy breakfast.  After filling our tanks from the same hoarder as his tanks got replenished in the morning, we had ample time for some local sightseeing. The day's original plan was to halt at Karigil at night which was at a distance of 120 km. We left Sonmarg at 1:30 pm when the pass opened for this side's traffic. 

The steadfast ride through the awe inspiring road of 15 km, leading up to the pass made a deep connect with my soul. The gloomy and misty afternoon with the sun peeping from behind the mountains and through the clouds; the cold air gushing at the face and the breath taking valley along the smooth roads will be registered in my mind forever.  

As we approached the first pass of our trip, the smooth roads gave way to rocks, boulders and dust. The roads were steep at some points, where we took care to ride in the first gears. There was a traffic build up at the top of the pass due to landslide at three places.

View of the deadly Zoji La with miles of traffic halt due to landslide

At the top of the pass, we also had to make our way through melting snow on either side of the road. We were stuck out there for almost 2 long hours while the BRO was on the job clearing the rocks with heavy duty bulldozers. However, as the roads cleared, while taking advantage of riding in bikes and overtaking other vehicles, we were the first people to get out of the place

 Bulldozing at Zoji La

The pass was not as tough as was being expected owing to the favorable weather conditions. Immediately after crossing the pass, we saw a lot of tourist vehicles parked at a point where people were enjoying the snow and Pony rides. We also took a break, had some photo shoot and enjoyed some hot tea and snacks.

After crossing Zoji La 

We drove all the stretch from Zoji La to Drass in the rains. The feeling of riding in the rain is unparalleled; with the smell of the wet asphalt after the first drizzle; water splashing  from your tires and onto your knees; the sound of the incessant rain droplets as they hit the ground; you feel that you are a part of the whole surrounding . On top of that, if you are driving in Ladakh amid the stunning valleys and mountains, your experience gets multiplied a thousand times which is simply indescribable; calling it something surreal and leaving it, would do some justice though. 

Although there was no need to stop as we were covered with proper raincoats and other gears, we took a halt at Drass where we had the most awesome Mutton prepared by the most humble person, Ali, which is highly talked and recommended by fellow bikers who visited before.Our group decided that as we were already wet and the light was becoming dim, we would halt at Drass for the night. 

Drass, as I came to know was the 2^nd coldest inhibited place on earth after Siberia where temperatures go as low as -55 degrees in the winters. 

We spent the night at a hotel which seemed  to be scary and haunted with the damp walls, the shaky floor, dim lights in the forsaken corridors, and the tripping sound of the rain droplets outside the window to create the sound effect.  The Night was windy and chilly with the relentless rain falling throughout.

DAY 5/ DRASS - LEH/ 280 KM

“Be gentle on my curves”; “Darling, I want you but not so fast” read some of the road signs on the way to Leh.

At Drass in the morning/ Manish and Me

After spending the night at the haunted place at Dras, it was time to go and get Leh-ed. The road from Drass to Leh can easily make it  to some of the most beautiful roads in the world. It’s not a smooth sailing though, with rough patches in between; however, 80% of the roads have been beautifully maintained by the BRO with some witty road safety signs.

The roads were wet from last night’s rain and the air was cold as we left Drass at 7 am in the morning. Just outside Dras, we stopped to see the Kargil War Memorial which was built to honor the Indian soldiers who sacrificed their lives in the war, recapturing some of the peaks occupied by the Pakistan Army in 1999. After clicking some pictures and showing some respect for the memorial, we set off for Kargil. 

Kargil War Memorial

The roads leading to Kargil were the smoothest and the cleanest roads of the trip.

There is a heavy movement of Army Trucks in this road

I recalled the scenes from some Indian war movies on Kargil as we drove past a lot of Indian army trucks on the way. After refilling our tanks at the picturesque town of Kargil, we crossed two passes, Namika La at 12198 feet and Fotu La at 13,479 feet before we reached at the beautiful monastery town of Lamayuru.

At Namika La with the beautiful colored flags

Beautiful, smooth and  curvy (we are talking about roads)

The beautiful monastery town of Lamayuru

We had some photo shoot at Moonland outside Lamayuru which is an incredible buildup of rock and sand. Some of the parts of Moonland resembled the faces curved in Mount Rushmore. 

Moonland! I wonder how it would look on a full moon night

Perfect Pose at Moonland

After that, we stopped at a dhaba , 10 km ahead of Lamayuru where we had a decent lunch. Mesmerized with the straightest and picturesque road that you have ever seen with beautiful deserts on either side, you do start believing that you are in heaven. I stopped a thousand times in the 100 km road leading to Leh, taking pictures every now and then. One could easily cross 100kmph on a bike in this kind of road; however, I drove rather slowly as I didn’t want this ride to end.

The road that leads to Heaven

After the customary stopover at the Magnetic hill, we visited the GurudwaraPathar Sahib situated some 20 odd km before Leh, where we had evening tea and snacks.

At the top of Magnetic Hill

Followed by more stop overs, we reached the lovely town of Leh at around 7:30 pm. We could see a lot of tourists and crowd in the town as we have reached during Kalachakra 2014 ceremony. The ceremony would be presided over by Dalai Lama, which is to be held between 3^rd and 12^th July in Leh wherein around 150,000 devotees were expected.

After finding ourselves a hotel and completing all rituals, we had a sumptuous continental dinner at one of the multitude of amazing restaurants that you find in Leh. It was cold and rainy that night as I went to bed in the cozy hotel room thinking about this amazing road trip unfolding so many colors and experiences.

DAY 6/ LEH-FIED

“Keep your bike in good repair; Motorcycle boots are not comfortable for walking” ~ anonymous 

Today was a day for bike repair, local sightseeing and rest and more rest. After having a good night’s sleep and waking up late, we had amazing breakfast at Gesmo, a German Bakery located near the Fort road. 

Gesmo Restaurant Leh/ Me, Rahul and Manish

I had the sumptuous English breakfast, which was among a lot of other breakfast options followed by which, we took a ride of the city of Leh on our bikes.

'English breakfast' at Gesmo

The city is located at a height of 11,562 feet in the Indus Valley. The city looks very ancient, decorated with the ubiquitous colored religious flags all over the structures and buildings. Riding on a bike in and around the city with the slight drizzle of rain should be listed as a trip itinerary to Leh. A visit to the mechanic followed as most of us had some bike trouble which consumed almost half of the day.

In the evening we went to the beautiful and serene Thiksay Monastery, a 15kms ride from Leh in the Leh-Manali highway. Located on a hill at the outskirts of the city, the 12 storied Thiksay Monastery painted in white, red and ochre looked royal and elegant.

Thikssay Monastery 

A series of steps took us to the 15 meters high statue of Buddha which was enclosed within the 2 stories of the Monastery. We took time at the precincts of the Monastery admiring the architecture and the view of the valley which featured the royal palace at Stok, across the valley to the south, and the former royal palace at Shey, to the west.

The colorful flags at Thiksay Monastery 

The serene atmosphere of the monastery was overpowering as the evening approached and the sun started to set behind the beautiful mountains.

At the precincts of Thiksay Monastery 

It grew dark and cold as we drove back to Leh. Dinner was at Café Jeevan located at Changspa Road near our hotel.

There are a lot of places to be visited such as the Leh Palace, Stok Palace, Shanti Stupa, a series of other monasteries, and lot of other fascinating and exotic places but we had to keep those visits for the next time.  

However, the dream for every biker to travel to the highest road in the world is scheduled to be completed tomorrow. A good night’s sleep was necessary to get ready for the rough roads and harsh climatic conditions to be thrown at us.

DAY 7/ LEH - KHARDUNG LA -LEH/ 80 KM

Khardung La !-  The Highest Motorable Road in the World

Khardung La, the gateway to the Nubra valley and the Siachen is a pass to the North of Leh. It is situated at a distance of 40 km from Leh and is the highest motor able road in the World. Subjected to the height of 18,380 feet at the top, riders are often prone to Acute Mountain Syndromebecause of the lack of oxygen in their blood at that height. Fortunately our group took the precaution of taking Diamox 250 mg which reduces the effect of AMS by increasing the level of oxygen in the blood.  We would be going to Khardung La and returning back to Leh, the same day.

We left for Khardung La at 9 am in the morning after filling up petrol from the apparent sole petrol pump of Leh. The Sign board read ‘Khardungla 39 km’ as we entered the road that appeared out of nowhere from the city road of Leh. The roads were smooth for the first 25 km (where the speed was above 50 kmph) until we reached South Pullu check post where the terrain became really tough with the temperature dipping slowly as we gained height. Due to landslides at different places, we had some long hauls with long queue of Private taxis, jeeps and cars, along with other fellow biker groups.

After waiting for some 2 long hours at a tea stall, an army personnel advised that we go back to Leh as the chances of the roads getting cleared was difficult. Disappointed to the core,  but almost convinced, we started discussing the idea just when the traffic started moving .

Landslides are a common affair at passes. Just hope that you are not there when it happens

Moving forward, there was no way that I could drive in more than 2^nd gear while applying breaks at every step. The difficulty level of the terrain was definitely on the higher side with my low suspension bike bouncing off the boulders, rocks and pot holes while my back took the toll.

It started snowing as we finally reached the beautiful summit which was partially covered in snow. The view of the nearby snow capped peaks looked amazing .Feeling accomplished, to reach the summit; we started clicking pictures against the iconic milestone. I could sense the lack of oxygen as I felt breathlessness with every step I took. 

As we got colder and felt the lack of energy, amid the falling snow, we went inside the sole army canteen where we treated ourselves with the hottest lemon tea and pakoras.

It was fun having our group photo with the Indian Flag in front of the signboard of Khardung La shouting slogans that echoed the place before we started our descent back.

World's Highest Motorable Road

The ride back was equally tough. When I got back to Leh at around 4 pm, after the exhausting and debilitating ride, I straightway went to bed with a mild body pain which developed into a slight fever at night.  I popped up ibuprofen before going to sleep at night

DAY 8 /LEH-PANGONG/ 195 KM)

"Everyone crashes. Some get back on. Some don't. Some can't". ~anonymous

The Pangong Lake is situated at a distance of 195 km from Leh. The route to Pangong cuts from Karu, which is at a distance of 35 km from Leh on the Leh- Manali highway. Chang la a mountain pass at a height of 17, 688 feet , the third highest motor able road in the world lies in between.

The plan is to reach Pangong Lake and halt for the night in the tents beside the lake and come back in the next day to Karu and stay in a hotel for a night before heading to Tso Morori. To make this trip comfortable with lesser weight on our bikes, we had this wonderful idea to leave our saddle bags behind at Karu in a hotel and taking with us only the bare essentials. Since we were a big group, we could afford a room to keep our luggage for a night.

Luckily, I was relieved from last night’s fever and body pain and felt pretty good in the morning. We left Leh at 6 am in the sunny morning and filled our tanks at the petrol pump, just before Karu. After keeping our luggage and having our breakfast there, we headed towards Pangong Lake at 8 am. 

The road to Chang La from Karu (35 km) is again very scenic with barren mountains, beautiful valleys and smooth roads. Some of the roads were so smooth that I could not refrain from pulling the throttle.  As usual, whenever there is a high pass, the roads leading to the pass from both sides become rough because of the regular Landslides. In addition to rough roads, this pass also had the steepest ascent as compared to any other pass on the trip which added to the difficulty. We had a brief halt at the top of the pass where we saw the temple of Chang la Baba. People often confuse that the pass is named after Chang La baba which is actually not the case.

At Chang La- 3rd Highest Motor-able road in the world

While descending the pass, my back pack which was tied with bungee cords kept on sliding at the side in spite of a lot of adjustments. Frustrated and irritated, I decided to untie all the cords and fastened the bag again. This exercise done at a height of 17000 feet left me utterly breathless and tired.

Beyond Chang La, the roads were smooth till Pangong. We had some light snacks at Tangste, a village with some few shops and hotels, around 60 km from Chang La.  

At a Dhaba in Tangste - Tea and Snacks are as important as petrol

Journey from Tangste to Pangong with beautiful landscape and valleys was a delight.

After Tangste -There is nothing more beautiful than bikers, standing  in a row 

The bikes posed better than us

I had my first and only fall of the trip in this road while taking a turn at a very slow speed. Contrary to having injuries, as the riding gears came to the rescue, the fall was actually smooth. 

Call me crazy, but i enjoyed the small thrill ride. After that, I could totally relate to Manish , who kept on falling again and again throughout the trip; not because he is a bad biker but probably because he actually enjoyed them.

The roads were smooth beyond that; however there were water passages built across the roads at regular intervals which meant slow driving.  

First view of Pangong Lake

We reached Pangong at around 4pm with plenty of evening time to be enjoyed. Looking at the intoxicating  view of the pristine blue water against the backdrop of the barren mountains and clear blue sky with the cool breeze blowing across my face, made me feel that I was in heaven.

Heavenly!!!

The lake as I learnt is 134 km long at a height of 14,270 feet and is shared between India and China with India occupying 40% of the length.

Unparalleled Happiness 

Facebook Profile pic anyone?

Poses Galore

Shot from the movie 'Ocean's Eleven'

We took our tent accommodation at the very first settlement at the beginning of the lake at Lukung with 4 persons in each tent. The tents with attached toilet were fairly built to withstand the freezing temperatures at night.

The Accommodations

One should remember that there is no mobile network at Pangong. The only way to make a call is through a satellite phone located at a drive of 4 km from Lukung.

In the evening, we drove that 4 km to make some calls. Making that call for home from the hut after sitting in the queue for almost an hour made me feel the value of a 2 minute call which we take for granted. The night became cold as we retired to our tents.

DAY 9/ PANGONG - KARU/ 195 KM

The sun, the wind, the lake, the shore, the mountains, the roads, the bikes...can't get better!

I woke up late in the morning and had breakfast in one of those small restaurants along the lake. After breakfast we had a ride to the other side of the lake where we took group pictures at various spots.

Some 4 km ahead of Lukung

Way to the lake shore

Shooting for the perfect group picture of the trip, standing and jumping along the bikes parked at the shore was very interesting and engaging.  We took a long time admiring and shooting different hues and nuances of the heavenly lake.
 

Picture perfect

Behind the Scenes

It was around 11 am when we started heading back to Karu leaving behind this amazing place. 

At Tangtse - on the way back to Karu

Somewhere on the way

We reached Karu at 5 pm in the evening. We took rooms in the same hotel where we left our saddle bags, 2 days back. Rum in the cold evening put a perfect end to our remarkable day.

DAY 10/ KARU -WHISKEY NULLAH/ 160 KM

“Sometimes the fastest way to get there is to stop for the night”~anonymous

Today onwards, we would be heading back towards Manali on the Leh-Manali Highway which is one of the highest mountain highway in the world with an average height of 13000 feet. We would be crossing five mountain passes on our way with the highest elevation at Tanglang La (17,582 feet),

The plan for today was to reach Sarchu(217km from Karu) and stay at one of the comfortable tent accommodations. Sarchu is the preferred stopover for overnight stay either from Manali or Leh as it lies midway between them.

We had to travel a distance of 323 km from Karu before we find petrol at the next petrol pump at Keylong. Therefore, after filling our tanks at Karu, some of us carried extra cans of petrol for the way. While some people carried petrol bottles under their inflated jackets looking like suicide bombers, others tied their bottles to their saddle bags.

Saddling the horses in the morning at Karu

We left Karu at 8 am in the morning after having breakfast. After riding for 15 km from Karu, we arrived at the Upshi village from where we took a right turn to stay on the Leh-Manali Highway. A left turn at the junction leads towards TsoMoriri Lake at a distance of 240 km. We had a stop at Tanglang la, the highest point in the Leh-Manali Highway, to take some group pictures.

Posing at Tanglang La , 17,582 feet - The 2nd highest Motorable Road in the World

The road after Tanglang la and before More Plains was quiet interesting. Riding in the roads filled with consistent gravels was a different experience altogether; at some stretches , the rocks were bigger and at other stretches, they were smaller but were spread out evenly. Although we drove the stretch at 40 kmph; a slight application of breaks among the gravels would have meant a deadly fall. 

Rough Roads after Tanglang La

We took a break after some 40km of driving from Tanglang la at a tent dhaba.

Engaged in some Biker's talk!

Beyond that, we could see flat land; miles and miles of it, as far as we could see. The 40 km stretch of More plains at an altitude of 13000 feet with beautiful barren mountains on either side was breathtaking; this is probably where the aliens land their space ships to play a game of football. 

The person, third from the right, is an alien! Nobody knows how he appeared in the pic  replacing Rahul Prajapati. He must have done it at some alien speed.

The road covering the 40 km stretch was smooth and straight as an arrow; however, you could hardly speed up above 70 kmph with full throttle owing to the slight incline and probably the lack of oxygen at that height.

After clicking a hell lot of pictures on the way, some of us reached Pang at around 2 pm, where we had lunch and impatiently waited for other group members to arrive who were trying to repair a puncture. The wait extended for hours before they finally arrived at 4:30 pm. 

Sarchu was some 80 km and two passes away from pang; Lachulung La and Nakee La are the two consecutive passes before we reach Sarchu. We left at 5 pm towards Sarchu among the slow moving trucks; consequently, by the time we crossed Lachulung La( 16,450 feet) and came to a valley between these two passes, it was almost dark.

Riding at night was strictly not allowed by our experienced group leader; as a result, we decided to halt at this cold and God forsaken place called Whiskey Nullah. There were only two tent-dhabas out here on either side of the road which also provided some unprofessional accommodations. Fortunately, 6 of us got accommodated in three small tents whereas the others had to stay inside the tent- dhabas and face the chilly night.

Egg bhurji with daal and roti was served in the evening. The dhaba wala also arranged for a bottle of old monk for us. Unheeded with the advice of our senior members not to take any alcoholic drink at this altitude which may cause BP problem, three of us ventured for the irresistible bottle of Old Monk before we went to bed.

DAY 11/ WHISKEY NULLAH- KEYLONG/ 160 KM

Mastering the art of crossing naalas

It was the chilliest night of the trip where the temperature reached sub zero, which was apparent with the frost sitting on our bikes in the morning. Our bikes refused to start and had to be pushed around. 

At Whiskey Nullah- biker buddy, Ankit, who survived the night after drinking rum will give you the best advice against drinking alcohol at this altitude.

After fastening our saddle bags to our bikes, we left for Keylong at 7 am in the morning.We crossed Nakee la (15,500 feet) and descended the Gata loops, a series of 21 hairpin bends.

Gata Loops- a series of 21 hair pin bends

While descending the Gata loops, I saw a place where a lot of bottles were discarded. Later on, I came to know from people  that a truck cleaner, stranded here due to snow, died and was buried at the same spot by villagers. Since then, whenever, people pass through the Gata loops, they put a bottle of water at the same place where he was buried.

Barren beauty! before Sarchu

25 km after crossing the beautiful Gata loops, we reached Sarchu, which is a meadow and the last station of Ladakh district. It has an army base and a check post where the vehicles need to be registered before entering Himachal Pradesh. We had breakfast at Sarchu before heading towards Baralacha la.  We crossed our way through tunnels of melting snow to reach the top at a height of 16000 feet where we stopped and took our time clicking pictures and enjoying the amazing view of snow capped mountains all around the place. 

At Baralacha La -Beautiful Snow capped Mountains at the backdrop 

At Baralacha La-  we tried all the poses

The stunning lake of SurajTaal, just 3 km ahead while descending the pass, took my breath away. Surrounded by beautiful snow mountains, the lake is the third highest in India at a height of 16000 feet. Fed from the melting glaciers of Baralacha la, this Lake forms the source of Bhaga River.

Spectacular view of the Suraj Taal Lake

Riding further down by around 15 km, we came to the famous Zing Zing Bar where we had tea and snacks. Beyond Baralacha La till Keylong, we could find a number of water bodies flowing over the road because of the melting snow. This is where I mastered the art of crossing the naalas. The trick is to first identify your way and cross it at a single stretch at first gear without stopping in between.

Confidence is what you require in doing that!

It is in this route, where the view of the mountains and the valley suddenly change and become green with trees and vegetation; a departure from the view of the beautiful valleys and barren mountains of Ladakh. The stretch of 30 kmroad leading to Jispa was very uncomfortable filled with dust, rocks and huge water bodies accompanied with the scorching heat of the sun.

After the exhausting ride, we finally reached Keylong, where we took rooms in Himachal Pradesh guest house. In the evening, we had a small tour of the small town of Keylong on our bikes.

DAY 12/ KEYLONG -NAGGAR/ 140 KM

Hotel Chandra Bhaga at Keylong

We filled our tanks at Keylong, at the first petrol pump after Karu and started for our next destination Naggar which is 20 km ahead of Manali. To reach Manali, we had to cross the Rothang pass at 13000 feet. The ride from Keylong to Khoksar along the Chandra River in the Lahol and Spiti valley was quiet scenic. We entered our details at Khoksar check post before starting the ascent for Rothang pass.  The rough roads with the nuisance of heavy trucks on the way proved slightly difficult than expected. We took a right turn from Gramphu junction, which is 15 km from Rothang La, to remain on the Leh-Manali highway; a left from Gramphu would have led us to Kaza.

Rothang pass was filled with a lot of tourists who had come from Manali to enjoy the snow. The hills covered with snow was teeming with people who were trying out different rides. We took a long halt out there,photographing and enjoying the yummiest food from the street vendors. I had the best Maggie of the trip right here.

View of Rothang Pass

The descent from Rothang to Manali was again very spectacular amidst the misty and cloudy weather with strong currents of chilly winds. We could see a lot of people paragliding all the way down from different spots on the highway.

After the more than 6000 feet descent from Rothang, we didn’t enter Manali but continued along the right side of the Beas River and headed straight to a trout fish farm, which also served food,situated midway between Manali and Naggar. A series of steps from the entrance of the farm took us through a garden area to the outside sitting near the bank of the river. Although the food was served after a long wait, every dish served was delicious.

At the Trout Fish Farm before Naggar

We took our Hotel near Naggar castle road. The cold evening came to an end with a cold beer of bottle at the hotel balcony with a view of the beautiful valley of Naggar.

Bikes parked in front of our hotel at Naggar

DAY 13 & 14/ NAGGAR–CHANDIGARH-DELHI/ 550KM

"Patience is something you admire in the driver behind you and scorn in the one ahead". ~ anonymous

The 12 hours long drive on NH 21 from Naggar to Chadnigarh(280km) was filled with heavy highway traffic; the hair pin bends, the scorching heat and loads of dust added to the menace. The journey via Bhuntar, the 3 km long Aut Tunnel before Mandi, Bilaspur where we had lunch and the highway filled with potholes before Chandigarh was exhausting. We reached Chandigarh at our hotel, covered with dust, tar and sweat at around 7pm. Cold beer in the AC rooms provided peace at the end of the day.

"Faster, Faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death." ~ Hunter S. Thompson

The next day, we started at 7 am in the morning and reached Delhi by 12 noon after a pit stop at Karnal for a breakfast. Ridding at 100 kmph on the NH1 in the morning till Karnal was enjoyable; however, beyond Karnal, the unbearable heat at 45 degrees was tough.

The amazing journey of 14 days came to an end as we parted our ways at the Delhi border.